Simple stuff here. The burners are the high-pressure type from Metal Fusion, Inc. (712 St. George Ave., Jefferson, Louisiana 70121, 504.736.0201). They cost $15.50 each plus shipping. Call them toll free at 800.783.3885. They'll take your information then you'll send them a check. After it clears, they'll send shiny new burners to your door. 

To determine the distance between the burner and the kegs, I measured the configuration of a Brinkmann Cajun Cooker, which is what I used to cook beer on. On it, the distance is three inches, so that's where I put them on my stand. You'll note, however, that in Constructing a Backyard Half-Barrel Brewery (Brewing Techniques: July/August 1998), Paul Zocco says to "allow 6 inches of distance between the casting (burner) and the bottom of the keg you are trying to heat." I don't know how he came up with that distance, but I bring it up just to let you know that mine might not be in the best position. Like they say, "YMMV!" 

I decided to add push button igniters to the burners after frustratingly click-click-clicking a lighter while crouched under there smelling the propane gather in a huge cloud of Brenham-wasting proportions. I first tried attaching the spark assembly to the metal shroud. This didn't work at all, except that I got a little dizzy. Then I got on the web and found Eric Schoville's 3-tiered brewery. He'd already gone through the same trials and tribulations that I was going through. He assured me that his igniters had performed well and haven't yet burned to ashes even though they're attached directly to the burners. That's all I needed to know and I've done the same thing. So far, so good. 

 Each burner is controlled by its own needle valve. They're all connected to one propane tank using a couple of tees with flare fittings. Absolutely, positively test each fitting with a soap-n-water solution before you turn on the gas and strike a match. I was sure I'd over-tightened everything, but found several bubbling joints. One of the needle valves actually needed its valve assembly tightened, so don't assume your hardware comes fully assembled. Test it all. Now do it again.  

The first time I brewed with this setup, I hadn't made the shrouds which surround each burner. I worried that the wind might blow out the flame under the mash tun since it's very low while stepping up between rests. It didn't happen that day, but I wasn't going to chance it in the future.  

From a 24" x 36" piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, I cut three strips, each 8" x 36". The edges are quite sharp (I learned by bloody accident), so fold over the long edges. Start the fold by first bending about 1/8" with a pair of pliers, then use a hammer to pound them over flat. This will also help reinforce them. Now bend the strip so that the two short ends overlap about an inch an mark hole locations with an awl or a nail. If I had a riveting tool, I would've used that, but since I bought plenty of nuts and bolts for the stand, I just used them. I pushed the awl through until the hole was big enough for the bolt, then hammered the jagged edges flat & bolted it together. By the time I had finished with the third shroud (on the HLT), I'd gotten much better at making the cut-outs for the burner and it's mounting bracket. The first one is quite ugly, however.